Showing posts with label Chinese. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chinese. Show all posts

3.14.2007

General Tso, To Go at Home


General Tso's Chicken (with peanut garnish)


The new "It" cookbook in the Foodist world seems to be the Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook. A few weeks ago, the NYT magazine ran Fuchsia Dunlop's recipe for General Tso's chicken from the book, and today that same paper's food section published a favorable review by Anne Mendelson.

In addition, one of my favorite new sites, Serious Eats, has a great video clip of the author cooking General Tso's chicken that made me want to run into the kitchen to cook. And writer Michael Ruhlman's blog has a nice step-by-step post about it.

I gave in and bought the book. There are lots of appealing recipes in here that I'm very interested to try, like Bowl-Steamed Eggplant with Winter-Sacrifice Beans and Salted Greens (page 223), Chicken with Ginger (page 130) and the intriguing Smacked Cucumbers (page 62) but I felt I had to give the recipe for General Tso's Chicken a go. Dunlop offers two versions; the more authentically Hunan recipe that I made differs in that it lacks the sugar of the Americanized version.

Maybe it's because I don't live in Manhattan or anywhere near the East coast; I don't have a tendency to order Chinese take-out, and don't really have a benchmark to measure this by. I know, I know, where have I been?

I have to tell you, I probably won't make this recipe again unless I change it a tiny bit, and by that I mean eliminating the deep-frying part. That will make this some other kind of recipe - more along the lines of General Mom's Chicken. Granted, I doubled the recipe to accommodate eight boneless chicken thighs instead of four because we are greedy chicken eaters. But still, it didn't seem worth the effort.

Maybe I should have done this in two separate batches, because when I added the doubled amount of potato starch to the marinade mixture, things "seized up" a bit, and it became less of a batter and more of a dough.

And, if you haven't deep-fried anything for a while, I'll remind you that while it isn't really difficult, it is rather time consuming and messy.

By the time we sat down to eat this, I was a little cranky. And after mixing that preciously deep fried chicken with the sauce, you couldn't even tell how it had been cooked. Why not just stir-fry it?

Meantime, I'll be making further investigations into this cookbook, and I'll keep you posted.




General Tso’s Chicken


Adapted from “The Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook,” by Fuchsia Dunlop; as published in the New York Times Magazine, February 4, 2007

For the sauce:
1 tablespoon double-concentrate tomato paste, mixed with 1 tablespoon water
1⁄2 teaspoon potato flour
1⁄2 teaspoon dark soy sauce
11⁄2 teaspoons light soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
3 tablespoons chicken stock or water
For the chicken:
12 ounces (about 4 to 5) skinless, boneless chicken thighs
1⁄2 teaspoon dark soy sauce
2 teaspoons light soy sauce
1 egg yolk
2 tablespoons potato flour
1 quart peanut oil, more as needed
6 to 10 dried red chilies
2 teaspoons finely chopped ginger
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2 teaspoons sesame oil
Scallions, thinly sliced, for garnish.

1. Make the sauce by combining all the ingredients in a small bowl. Set aside.

2. To prepare the chicken, unfold the chicken thighs and lay them on a cutting board. Remove as much of the sinew as possible. (If some parts are very thick, cut them in half horizontally.) Slice a few shallow crosshatches into the meat. Cut each thigh into roughly 1⁄4 -inch slices and place in a large bowl. Add the soy sauces and egg yolk and mix well. Stir in the potato flour and 2 teaspoons peanut oil and set aside. Using scissors, snip the chilies into 3⁄4 -inch pieces, discarding the seeds. Set aside.

3. Pour 3 1⁄2 cups peanut oil into a large wok, or enough oil to rise 1 1⁄2 inches from the bottom. Set over high heat until the oil reaches 350 to 400 degrees. Add half the chicken and fry until crisp and deep gold, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken to a plate. Repeat with the second batch. Pour the oil into a heatproof container and wipe the wok clean.

4. Place the wok over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons peanut oil. When hot, add the chilies and stir-fry for a few seconds, until they just start to change color. Add the ginger and garlic and stir-fry for a few seconds longer, until fragrant. Add the sauce, stirring as it thickens. Return the chicken to the wok and stir vigorously to coat. Remove from the heat, stir in the sesame oil and top with scallions. Serve with rice. Serves 2 to 3.




Copyright (c) 2007 FamilyStyle Food

2.19.2007

Paean for Pig


Sweet & Spicy Ribs


Yesterday, we decided to prepare a small feast to kick off 2007 Chinese New Year, the Year of the Pig, mostly because T and I had a hankering for a little side o’ pork. I’m pretty sure baby back ribs aren’t one of the traditional symbolic good luck foods associated with Chinese New Year. If we’ve trashed our shot at happiness and prosperity this year, we have only our pork passion to blame.

My daughter A has a thing for pigs; specifically a whimsical creature called the Flying Pig. I’m not sure how she developed this attraction. All I know is that her collection of winged, fluffy pink pig iconography seems to be growing by the day, along with, I might add, a growing sensitivity toward the eating of pigs or any other cute farm animal. I’m afraid we have a budding vegetarian in our midst. Which is interesting, considering how my kids lust after meat.

She didn’t have any problem inhaling these ribs though. The recipe comes from Steven Raichlen’s book Ribs, Ribs, Outrageous Ribs. I’ve made a few things from it, and I have to conclude that the man is a genius. The sauce is perfectly salty-sweet and tangy.

To round out the meal, I stir-fried some mushrooms and Chinese broccoli, otherwise known as gai lan. It’s one of my favorite greens, which I’ll tell you more about later.



Chinatown Ribs


Adapted from Ribs, Ribs, Outrageous Ribs by Steven Raichlen
Feeds four to six

5 pounds baby back pork ribs (2 racks should do it)
1 cup hoisin sauce
1/2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/3 cup Chinese rice wine, dry sherry, sake or white wine
3 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
5 garlic cloves, smashed with the side of a heavy knife
5 thin slices peeled ginger, smashed with the side of a heavy knife
3 green onions, white and light green parts thinly sliced

Arrange the ribs in a large pan or baking dish.

In a medium bowl, whisk together all remaining ingredients until the sugar is dissolved.
Set aside a scant 1/2 cup of the mixture; pour the rest over the ribs, turning them to coat evenly.

Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours and up to 8 hours, the longer the better.
Set up a charcoal or gas grill for indirect grilling, or heat your oven to 350 degrees. Place on the grill rack (or a shallow baking sheet if cooking in the oven), bone side down. Cook for 1 1/2 hours, or until the ribs are dark brown, crisp, and the meat is tender enough to pull off the bone with your fingers.

Place the reserved marinade in a small saucepan and simmer for about 3 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl to serve alongside the ribs.






Copyright (c) 2007 FamilyStyle Food